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posted Apr 22, 2016, 5:56 AM by Christopher Kidd

After the Storm: How to Check Your Property for Damage

Posted by Safeco March 23, 2015

Conduct a Storm Damage Inspection

Assessing storm damage.

The beauty of spring is often tempered by powerful storms, with heavy rains, strong winds and destructive hail. Through it all, your home protects you from the elements, so be sure to check it for damage afterward.

Even if you have no reason to suspect that damage occurred, check your home and its surroundings (once it’s safe to do so, of course). It’s important to identify problems, make emergency repairs and determine if an insurance claim is necessary.

Here’s a handy list of things to check after a storm from the National Storm Damage Center:

Roof
Your roof might be the area of your home most vulnerable to damage in a storm, because so many things can impact it. Whether you’ve had high winds and downed tree branches or just a simple hailstorm, look for these indicators of damage:

  • Holes in the roof
     
  • Split seams
     
  • Missing shingles
     
  • Leaks in your roof or ceiling

Building Exteriors
While siding, stucco and brick all are durable, they also are susceptible to storm damage. In some instances, homeowners don’t notice until it’s too late to file a claim, so check carefully for:

  • Cracking, chipping or dings and dents on siding. Even if there doesn’t appear to be damage at first, check again at a different time of day. You may see something you missed when the lighting is different.
     
  • Holes in stucco. This is a serious problem, even when small, so look closely. If you find holes, have a professional conduct a full property inspection.
     
  • Damaged brick and tuck pointing. While brick typically holds up well, a check can identify any problem areas.
     
  • Detached or damaged trim, gutters, etc.

Driveways and Walkways
Concrete can chip, crack and split, not only reducing the lifespan of your driveway or walkway, but potentially creating a safety issue.

Trees
Fallen trees and limbs cause more than $1 billion in damage each year, according to the National Storm Damage Center. Keep in mind that property owners generally are responsible for removing trees and limbs that have fallen on their property, even if it is a tree from a neighbor’s yard. Your insurance policy may help to cover the cost of removal and repairs, depending on the coverage you have and the circumstances of the incident. (There are exceptions to this, depending on the maintenance of the tree, so check with your insurance agent.)

General Tips

  • Severe storms often will knock down power lines. If this happens on your property, rope off 30 feet in each direction around the line and do not touch it. Call 911 and the power company immediately.
     
  • Be sure to do a full check of your property, including things such as your air-conditioning unit, fences, vent caps, etc. And don’t forget to check your vehicles if they were not garaged at the time of the storm.
     
  • Don’t forget the crawl space. “Most people don’t ever look down there,” according to J. Szczesny, owner of 4 Seasons Home Inspections in Seattle and a Certified Master Inspector. “You need to be sure no water is getting in, and, if it is, make sure it is removed quickly via a sump pump or underground drainage system.”
     
  • Take pictures of all damage from different angles. You want to document as much as possible.

Finally, knowing the details of your homeowners coverage, your limits and your deductibles can help you during the insurance claims process. It’s a great idea to examine your policy and know what your homeowners insurance covers now, before the storm.

 

How Does Your Insurance Cover You in a Storm?

That’s a great question for your independent insurance agent. Talk to your local agent about the perils for which you have coverage and add additional coverage, as needed.

10 Home Maintenance Tips for Spring

posted Mar 1, 2016, 6:13 AM by Christopher Kidd

After a long, dark winter, spring's bright sun and warm winds are, well, a breath of fresh air. The only downside? All that sunshine spotlights your leaf-filled gutters, cracked sidewalks and the dead plants in last year's flower beds. Dwight Barnett, a certified master inspector with the American Society of Home Inspectors, shared this checklist to help you target the areas that need maintenance so you can get your chores done quickly, leaving you time to go outside and play in the sunshine.

1. Check for loose or leaky gutters. Improper drainage can lead to water in the basement or crawl space. Make sure downspouts drain away from the foundation and are clear and free of debris.

2. Low areas in the yard or next to the foundation should be filled with compacted soil. Spring rains can cause yard flooding, which can lead to foundation flooding and damage. Also, when water pools in these low areas in summer, it creates a breeding ground for insects.

3. Use a screwdriver to probe the wood trim around windows, doors, railings and decks. Make repairs now before the spring rains do more damage to the exposed wood.

4. From the ground, examine roof shingles to see if any were lost or damaged during winter. If your home has an older roof covering, you may want to start a budget for replacement. The summer sun can really damage roof shingles. Shingles that are cracked, buckled or loose or are missing granules need to be replaced. Flashing around plumbing vents, skylights and chimneys need to be checked and repaired by a qualified roofer.

5. Examine the exterior of the chimney for signs of damage. Have the flue cleaned and inspected by a certified chimney sweep.

6. Inspect concrete slabs for signs of cracks or movement. All exterior slabs except pool decks should drain away from the home's foundation. Fill cracks with a concrete crack filler or silicone caulk. When weather permits, power-wash and then seal the concrete.

7. Remove firewood stored near the home. Firewood should be stored at least 18 inches off the ground at least 2 feet from the structure.

8. Check outside hose faucets for freeze damage. Turn the water on and place your thumb or finger over the opening. If you can stop the flow of water, it is likely the pipe inside the home is damaged and will need to be replaced. While you're at it, check the garden hose for dry rot.

9. Have a qualified heating and cooling contractor clean and service the outside unit of the air conditioning system. Clean coils operate more efficiently, and an annual service call will keep the system working at peak performance levels. Change interior filters on a regular basis.

10. Check your gas- and battery-powered lawn equipment to make sure it is ready for summer use. Clean equipment and sharp cutting blades will make yardwork easier.

Thanks: http://www.hgtv.com/design/decorating/clean-and-organize/10-home-maintenance-tips-for-spring


Is It Snowing In Your Attic?

posted Jan 27, 2016, 8:53 AM by Christopher Kidd   [ updated Feb 5, 2016, 9:12 AM ]

It may sound a little far-fetched but snow can accumulate in your attic and cause stains and leaks.

Snow can be pushed by winds through your homes soffit vents and the gables vents, accumulating in the attic. If you are seeing new stains on the ceiling, or water dripping from the ceiling, check your attic for snow.

With large amounts of snow on the ground you also have to watch for ice damming. If the downspouts on your home are blocked by snow, the downspouts may not drain properly and allow ice and water to build up in the gutters. That is will eventually soak through the shingles and end up in your attic. Larger amounts will cause problems even with three feet of ice and water shielding along the eaves of your roof.

Before you see water dripping from your ceiling, you should check the attic and shovel out around your downspouts. It may save you a ton of headaches.

What to Do During a Significant Snow Event

posted Jan 21, 2016, 7:07 AM by Christopher Kidd   [ updated Feb 5, 2016, 9:12 AM ]

FEMA recommendations for roof systems during winter weather:

 

What to Do During a Significant Snow Event

Your Snow Event Response Plan should be reviewed. The Plan should define a methodology to determine an approximate snow load and at what point snow removal should be initiated. Snow removal will prevent overstressing of the roof structure. Having an in-house plan for snow removal in place or a contractor on retainer is imperative. Contractors will be in high demand and difficult to find once a snow storm begins.

What to Do After a Major Snow Event

Even if snow accumulation during an individual snow event approaches but does not surpass the threshold of safety, removal of snow from the roof may still be in order. Roof snow that is exposed to sunlight can soften, become denser, and then harden when the temperature drops below freezing. Melting water may pool and subsequently freeze, creating a concentrated area of loading on the roof. If subsequent snow events are anticipated, removing snow from the roof will minimize the risk of accumulating snow causing structural damage. One benefit of immediate snow removal is that the effort required to remove the snow from the rooftop is reduced. However, when snow accumulation is minor, the likelihood of damaging the roofing material or risk of being on a roof outweighs the benefits of removal.

WARNING

If there is any concern that snow loads may cause a collapse of the roof structure, cease all removal activity and evacuate the building.

Safety Measures for Snow Removal

Any roof snow removal should be conducted following proper OSHA protocol for work on rooftops. Use roof fall arrest harnesses where applicable.  Always have someone below the roof to keep foot traffic away from locations where falling snow or ice could cause injuries.

MEASURES TO REDUCE THE POTENTIAL OF SNOW LOAD-INDUCED STRUCTURAL FAILURES

Ensure someone confirms that the area below removal site is free of equipment that could be damaged by falling snow or ice.

Whenever snow is being removed from a roof, be careful of dislodged icicles. An icicle falling from a short height can still cause damage or injury.

When using a non-metallic snow rake, be aware that roof snow can slide at any moment. Keep a safe distance away from the eave to remain outside of the sliding range.

Buried skylights pose a high risk to workers on a roof removing snow. Properly mark this hazard as well as other rooftop hazards prior to snow events.

Method of Snow Removal

Removing snow completely from a roof surface can result in serious damage to the roof covering and possibly lead to leaks and additional damage. At least 2 inches of snow should be left on the roof.

Do not use mechanical snow removal equipment. The risk of damaging the roof membrane or other rooftop items outweighs the advantage of speed.

Do not use sharp tools, such as picks, to remove snow. Use plastic rather than metal shovels.

Remove drifted snow first at building elevation changes, parapets, and around equipment.

Once drifted snow has been removed, start remaining snow removal from the center portion of the roof.

 Remove snow in the direction of primary structural members. This will prevent unbalanced snow loading.

Do not stockpile snow on the roof.

Dispose of removed snow in designated areas on the ground.

Keep snow away from building exits, fire escapes, drain downspouts, ventilation openings, and equipment.

If possible, remove snow starting at the ridge and moving toward the eave for gable and sloped roofs.

Use a non-metallic snow rake for steep roof slopes if possible. Metal snow rakes can damage roofing material and should be avoided. Snow removal can be conducted from the ground, removing the risk to people on a hazardous roof.

Upon completion of snow removal, the roofing material should be inspected for any signs of damage. Additionally, a quick inspection of the structural system may be prudent after particularly large snow events.

Ice Dams - Its that time of year again

posted Jan 11, 2016, 8:38 AM by Christopher Kidd   [ updated Feb 5, 2016, 9:12 AM ]

The Problem?

An ice dam forms when the roof over the attic gets warm enough to melt the underside of the layer of snow on the roof. The water trickles down between the layer of snow and the shingles until it reaches the eave of the roof, which stays cold because it extends beyond the side of the house. There, the water freezes, gradually growing into a mound of ice.

The flatter the pitch of the roof, the easier it is for an ice dam to get a grip. Gutters at the eaves can also trap snow and ice. If snow and ice build up high enough in the gutter, it can provide a foundation for an ice dam.

roof-ice-dam


The Result!

When an ice dam gets big enough, melted water backs up behind it and seeps underneath the shingles. Eventually, it will drip into the insulation and down into the ceilings and exterior walls beneath the eave, ruining sheetrock and paint. If the ice dam breaks free, it can pull shingles and gutters off with it, and if the roof sheathing stays wet, it can form mildew and start to rot.


Solutions.


Dealing with what has already happened.

1. Remove the ice dam by breaking it up into small chucks. Do not use anything sharp because you could cut through the shingles. This is slow, dangerous work, so hire someone experienced at roofing. Even if you do it safely, the chunks of ice can take pieces of shingle with them.

2. Clear out gutters and downspouts. Again, this is ladder work and an easy way to damage either plastic or metal gutters and downspouts.

3. Melt troughs through the ice dam with ice melt. Do not use rock salt! It will damage paint, metals, and plants beneath the eave and wherever the salty water drains.


Preventing it from happening again in the short term.

You can scrape snow from the roof whenever it falls, using a snow rake from below or a broom or plastic shovel from above. 


Fixing the problem.

The only way to truly fix the problem – is to prevent it in the first place:

1. Seal all points where warm air leaks from the living space into attic.

2. Insulate the attic well enough to prevent the conduction of heat through the ceiling of the living area.

3. Properly vent the space between the attic insulation and the roof sheathing, so any heat that leaks through is carried away.


HOW TO DETERMINE WHETHER YOU NEED BETTER ATTIC VENTILATION

posted Jan 7, 2016, 7:46 AM by Christopher Kidd   [ updated Feb 5, 2016, 9:12 AM ]

Some tips from our friends at the Family Handyman. 

In the summer, good attic ventilation reduces heat buildup. That cuts cooling costs and prolongs shingle life. In the winter, warm, moist air seeps into the attic from the living space below. Good ventilation allows the heat and moisture to escape. That keeps your attic dry and reduces ice dams. Here are four signs of an unventilated or under ventilated attic: 

·                 Look at your eaves and roof. If you don’t see any vents on the roof or in the eaves, you need to add some. Your roof vents may not look anything like the ones shown in this article. Your roof may have a ridge vent, which is a low profile, continuous vent running along the peak of the roof. Or it may have gable vents, which are louvered openings at the top of gables.

·                 Touch your ceiling on a warm, sunny day. A hot ceiling tells you that the attic is acting like a solar oven, raising your cooling bills and cooking the shingles.

·                 Thick ridges of ice on your eaves in winter are a sign of poor attic ventilation. Warm air that escapes rooms below gets trapped in the attic. Snow melts and the water refreezes on the cold eaves, creating ice dams.

·                 Warm air that escapes living space also carries moisture that will condense on rafters or roof sheathing. Grab a flashlight and inspect your attic during the winter. If you see dampness or frost, you need better ventilation. 

For the full article: http://www.familyhandyman.com/attic/how-to-improve-attic-ventilation/view-all

CONTRACTOR'S WAIVER OF YOUR DEDUCTIBLE MAKES YOU BOTH GUILTY OF FELONY INSURANCE FRAUD

posted Jan 5, 2016, 7:17 AM by Christopher Kidd   [ updated Feb 5, 2016, 9:13 AM ]

Few decisions you will make as a property owner are more important than the ones you make when involved in a property insurance claim. Many involved in the insurance claims process may not have your best interests at heart. One of the most important indicators of this is the willingness of someone seeking out your business who suggests breaking the law. Your insurance policy is a contract between you and your insurer, the terms of the agreement apply to both you and the insurer. One of the terms of your policy is the deductible. The deductible is the portion of repairs “YOU” are responsible for paying out of pocket for. Any effort by you or any other party to reduce or offset your deductible is considered “INSURANCE FRAUD” and is also a leading cause of high premiums. Many "INSURANCE RESTORATION CONTRACTORS" will agree to perform the repairs for a certain dollar amount but will bill your insurance for another. For example, if the Contractor agrees to perform the repairs for say $4000 but bills the insurance company for repairs totaling $5000, because they waived your $1000 deductible. The insurance company has now suffered a $1000 loss.

The simple fact is that you cannot do this without being party to a “FELONY CRIMINAL ACT”. If you are approached by a Contractor offering to waive/rebate all or part of your deductible on an insurance claim, then maybe they are not someone you want to do business with. The individual offering to do this is offering to commit insurance fraud and if you sign up, so are you. THIS CRIME IS A “FELONY”, PUNISHABLE BY UP TO 15 YEARS IN PRISON AND A FINE OF 3 TIMES THE AMOUNT OF THE TOTAL INSURANCE CLAIM. That $1000 you saved on that $5000 claim, may cost you $15000 with 15 years to think about it.

It comes down to whether the insurer wants to pursue charges or not. And if they do, well they will have an army of lawyers on their side. Will you?

Do's And Don'ts When Insuring Your Home

posted Nov 24, 2015, 5:50 AM by Christopher Kidd   [ updated Feb 5, 2016, 9:13 AM ]


DO:

1)  Recognize that under insurance after a total loss is a very common problem. Many homeowners find themselves under insured after a total loss even though they followed their agent or insurer’s recommendations. If you find yourself in this position, get educated and enforce your rights. The promise of security that insurers advertise and sell is part of the contract you paid for. It’s up to you to enforce your rights under that contract. 

2)  Establish a contact at a reputable insurance company, agent or broker’s office that is qualified and authorized to advise you on properly insuring your home. The advice you’ll get from an agent that only represents one insurance company will be different from the advice you’ll get from an “independent” agent or broker that represents several competing companies.

3)  Be specific that you want to make sure your home is properly insured and that you want to buy full replacement coverage. Many agents fear that if they tell you the true cost of fully insuring your home you will go elsewhere to find a cheaper policy. Be clear that you will pay a fair premium for full replacement coverage and insist you don't want to gamble or under insure your home.

4)  Answer all questions truthfully so the insurance company knows the size of your home, other structures, the style of construction, major improvements, unusual features and your high value personal property items.

5)  Follow the insurer, agent or broker’s recommendations on increasing or maintaining your limits. Get and keep a record of the insurer, agent, or broker’s confirmation that your limits are adequate.

6)  For extra security, buy the highest percentage replacement cost endorsement you can afford. This is a “fudge factor”. If you suffer a major loss and it turns out your insurer set your limits too low, this endorsement is designed to bridge the gap. Replacement cost endorsements are sold as percentage amounts above your stated dwelling limits. Most insurers offer 25-100% above limits. Shop around for this important protection.

7)  Figure out the cost to replace your contents and adjust your policy limits accordingly. Some items such as jewelry, art items and collectibles may be better insured if they’re specifically listed in your policy contract. This is known in the industry as “scheduling.” Scheduled personal property items are listed with separate coverage limits in a document that becomes part of the policy contract.

8)  Make sure you have enough contents coverage. A replacement cost endorsement that increases your dwelling limits may not also increase your contents limits. Most insurers set the limits for your possessions, (“contents”) as a percentage of the limits on your dwelling. Contents limits are typically set at 50-75% of dwelling limits. Most insurers sell a replacement cost endorsement that only increases dwelling limits. This means your contents limits will stay at the amount stated on your “declarations page” even if the replacement cost endorsement kicks in to increase your dwelling limits. A few insurers sell a policy that allows both dwelling and contents limits to increase. If yours doesn’t, make sure you get confirmation that your limits in all categories are high enough or buy coverage elsewhere.

9)  Make sure your policy offers adequate coverage for building code upgrades. The safest bet is full building code upgrade coverage, which is available from companies such as Fireman’s Fund, Safeco, Chubb, and Allied. Most other insurers offer either an extra 10% for building code upgrade coverage or a flat $25,000.

10)  Your Additional Living Expense (ALE) limits should cover rent, etc. for at least two years after a total loss. Many companies require you to use your ALE coverage within 12 or 24 months after a loss, even if you haven’t exhausted the limits. This can be a problem because it always takes longer to rebuild than you anticipate, especially in a disaster area. If your insurer only offers 12 months of ALE, consider switching to a competitor. You may not have to pay a lot more for better ALE coverage. If your insurer offers a fixed dollar amount with no time limitation, divide that amount by 24 months to compare the coverage. Some policies refer to ALE as “Loss of Use.”

11)  Make sure you tell your agent about improvements to your home. Most carriers require you to report any renovations costing $5,000 or more.

12)  Take steps to make your home eligible for better, cheaper coverage. To qualify for the best coverage, homeowners need a newer roof, updated plumbing, wiring, heating system, and a bolted foundation. Ask your agent what you can to do to lower your risk of loss.

13)  Opt for higher deductibles. Increasing your will lower your premium. You're generally better off paying small claims out of pocket anyway, especially until insurance regulators reign in “use it and lose it". "Use it and Lose It" refers to some insurers' recent practice of refusing to renew the policies of customers who file claims. This allows insurers to continue to collect premiums but shrink payouts by discouraging customers from filing claims…use your insurance, lose your insurance!

14)  Avoid extra headaches after a loss: Photograph or videotape your home and contents and store copies of the photos or the negatives off-premises.

15)  If your agent contacts you at renewal time to review your coverage's, spend time with him or her discussing your policy limits and insist again that you want to make sure you're fully insured.

16)  To be extra safe, check the dwelling limit ("Coverage A") that appears in your policy against what you know about your home and construction costs in your area. If they don't match, ask your agent or insurer to explain why they don't. Contact reputable home-builders in your area to determine the current range of per square foot construction prices for your type and size home. Apply that range to your home; add at least 15-20% to account for future price increases and post-disaster price spikes and compare it with the dwelling limits your insurance company has set. Discuss and resolve any discrepancies with your insurer, agent or broker.

17)  Double check the formula your agent or insurer used to set your dwelling limits ("Coverage A"). Ask the agent or insurer to send you a copy of the worksheet he or she used to calculate the cost to rebuild your home. Some insurers give their agents worksheets that are designed for calculating homes less than 3,000 square feet with newer construction. These worksheets may cause homes that have unique characteristics or higher quality of materials to be under insured. If your home is large enough, your insurer may send out an appraiser, and if they do, make sure you get a copy of the appraiser’s report.

DON’T:

1)  Don’t rely on the purchase, appraised or estimated sale price of your home to set your dwelling limits. That is not predictive of the cost to rebuild.

2)  Don’t be penny-wise and pound-foolish by buying the lowest priced homeowners policy. Your home is your biggest asset – make sure it’s covered.

3)  Don’t understate the size and amenities of your home to get a lower premium quote.

4)  Don’t underestimate your personal possessions. You’ll be surprised how much it costs to replace what you had if you suffer a major loss.

5)  Don’t be afraid to switch insurers to get a better policy. Loyalty doesn’t benefit you in this context. Many homeowners pay premiums to an insurer for 20 years without ever filing a claim, but when they suffer a major loss and find themselves under insured – that customer loyalty doesn’t matter. Don’t expect your insurer to reward you by increasing your limits without a fight, just because you’ve been a long time customer. It just doesn’t happen.

6)  Don’t wait until after a loss to get appraisals of valuables. Do store copies off-premises.

VIA http://uphelp.org/pubs/dos-and-donts-when-insuring-your-home

SIDING MATCHING

posted Nov 24, 2015, 5:42 AM by Christopher Kidd   [ updated Feb 5, 2016, 9:12 AM ]

Aluminum Siding Claims
MIA BULLETIN NO. 97-1
The Maryland Insurance Administration (MIA) has received numerous complaints
from homeowners concerning the settlement practices of insurers of claims for damage to
aluminum siding from hail. These complaints allege practices by insurers of paying to
replace only those portions of siding that are physically damaged without regard to the
mismatching between existing and new siding. Failure to adjust such claims in accordance
with policy provisions or the company’s own operations or settlement guidelines may result
in a finding that the insurer is in violation of Section 230A, Article 48A of the Code. This
Bulletin reiterates long-standing MIA policy regarding the settlement of such claims.
The MIA interprets Section 230A, Article 48A of the Code, in the following manner
as to claims for aluminum siding damage under a covered peril made under a “replacement
cost” homeowner’s policy. The replacement of damaged siding with new siding may result in
mismatched siding between the existing siding and the newly replaced siding. In such cases
of mismatching, settlement options include moving undamaged siding from other areas of the
house to replace damaged siding, replacement of both damaged and undamaged siding on
one or more sides of a house, replacement of all siding, and/or an allowance to reflect
diminution in value of the house caused by the mismatch. While the MIA does not interpret a
replacement cost policy to require in every instance, replacement of all siding including
undamaged siding in order to minimize mismatching, insurers whose settlement practices fail
to take into account major differences in color shades, textures, or siding dimensions as
provided above may be subject to action under Section 230A.
Insurers should inform their insureds of any appraisal rights under the policy where
there is disagreement on the amount of a covered loss. See COMAR 09.30.75

THE TRUTH ABOUT INSURANCE CLAIMS

posted Nov 23, 2015, 11:54 AM by Christopher Kidd   [ updated Feb 5, 2016, 9:12 AM ]

The REAL truth about Hail Damage to your Roofing and Siding in Maryland

 

THAT'S NOT COVERED

A client calls up his insurance agent and tells him he needs to file a claim.

The agent says "Tell me what happened?"

The client tells him and the agent says "I´m sorry but that´s not covered."

The client says "Well, let me explain better what happened."

The agent says "I´m sorry but that´s not covered either."

The client says " I´ll tell you what, you tell me what´s covered and I´ll tell you how it happened!"

 

The real truth about any damage to your home is that your insurance company does not want you to file a claim, they would rather the damage never occurred. Think about it - insurance companies make money by collecting premiums and hoping that you never have a need to file a claim. Homeowners often fear a rate increase if they do file a claim. In reality your rates will go up even if you don't file a claim as your neighbors will be filing claims for similar damage. So you can either face a rate increase or not get any benefit from it. We will never advise you to file a claim where damage does not exist. You should not file a claim without having your damage and its source verified by an expert. The insurance adjuster follows strict guidelines established by your insurance company that minimize the company’s exposure to false or fraudulent claims. In many cases valid claims can be denied if anything in the claim appears to fall outside of these established guidelines. This is why being represented by an expert of your own is so important. Most people in Maryland don't even realize they have had hail damage to their roof, siding, or fascia materials. The impact of hail damage can loosen, fracture or remove granules from your asphalt shingles, Hail can leave tiny to large pits in your siding and fascia as well. The granules protect the asphalt from sunlight and Ultra Violet Light (U.V.). The roofing asphalt will deteriorate very quickly once it has had hail impact and is exposed to the sun. This is the reason hail damaged roofing will prematurely fail. Hail damaged roofs may or may not show up immediately as visual damage to the inexperienced observer. In some cases, the effects may not be visible or apparent for about a year or two. The effects of a hailstorm void the shingle manufacturer's warranty, as manufacturers will not warrant against "Acts of God" such as hailstorms. Nations Home Remodelers, Inc. is your Maryland full service insurance recovery contractor. We perform all types of remodeling, renovation, and home improvements. Nations Home Remodelers, Inc. works with your insurance company to make sure that you receive the repairs to your roofing, siding, gutters, and downspouts that you are entitled to in the event of a hail storm or other severe weather event.

LISTED BELOW ARE THE THREE BIGGEST PROBLEMS MARYLAND HOMEOWNERS HAVE WHEN REPLACING THEIR ROOF, SIDING, OR FASCIA DUE TO HAIL DAMAGE. NATIONS HOME REMODELERS HAS A SOLUTION TO THEM ALL!

PROBLEM #1: UNDERSTANDING YOUR INSURANCE ADJUSTMENT. Did you ever become really confused reading an insurance adjustment? Most Maryland insurance companies will give you an adjustment form that only the most advanced rocket scientists can decipher, they give you a number of squares that have been hail damaged, depreciation, allowances, etc. and you have to determine the actual amount of money you have to replace your roof. Good luck doing this without the help of an expert.

SOLUTION: MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A FAIR ADJUSTMENT. Nations Home Remodelers Roofing & Siding consultants are qualified to estimate the extent of the hail damage to your Roofing, Siding, and Fascia. The insurance company is not infallible. Nations Home Remodelers will examine your Maryland insurance adjustment and explain in plain English exactly what you are allowed for your Hail Damaged roof, siding, and fascia. If there is a discrepancy with the adjustment, our consultants are qualified to work with the Maryland insurance adjuster to get you the full replacement cost for your Hail Damaged Roofing , siding , and fascia.

PROBLEM #2: MAKING SURE YOU CHOOSE A QUALIFIED REPUTABLE MARYLAND ROOFING & SIDING CONTRACTOR TO REPLACE YOUR HAIL DAMAGED ROOF, SIDING, AND FASCIA. (Have you ever had a bad roofing or siding experience? If you have, then you are well aware of all the things that could or did go wrong, such as: Delays starting the roof, Completion time, Removal of debris, and Lack of communication.)

SOLUTION: NATIONS HOME REMODELERS IS A WELL QUALIFIED AND REPUTABLE MARYLAND ROOFING & SIDING CONTRACTOR SPECIALIZING IN HAIL DAMAGE INSURANCE RESTORATION WORK. Your roof will be started within 48 hours of material delivery. We will have a full crew on your job from start to finish most residential roofs take 1 to 2 days. Most siding jobs take 2-3 days. Our crew will be on site with trucks to remove debris and clean-up will be to your satisfaction. You can reach our office 24 hours a day.

PROBLEM #3: PROBLEMS WITH THE WARRANTY. Have you ever called for warranty work only to find that you’re roofing or siding contractor has disconnected his phone and moved from his temporary office? Have you ever needed legitimate warranty work on your roofing or siding and your contractor failed to honor your warranty?

SOLUTION: STABILITY AND SERVICE. Nations Home Remodelers has been locally owned and operated since 1991. Nations Home Remodelers has also maintained good standing with The Better Business Bureau as a BBB accredited business.

In most cases hail damage claims serviced by Nations Home Remodelers result in the complete replacement of your homes roofing and/or siding. We work with your insurance carrier to make this happen. Call us now to schedule your no obligation hail damage inspection.

We have worked with almost every insurance provider, large and small.

 

Visit us online at: Nations Home Remodelers, Inc. to schedule your free hail damage assessment or call us at: 410-549-2040 or 1-800-646-2846. We are also available via e-mail at: nhrmaryland@gmail.com

 

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